1880-1929Thelema in Paris

Printable tour · 7 places

Pigalle, Trudaine and the Butte

In the footsteps of Guaita, Papus and Erik Satie, from the cabarets of Pigalle to the top of Montmartre.

On foot · about 1 h 15 · 2.5 km (final climb to the Butte)

See on the map

Tip: in the print window, choose “Save as PDF” to keep the tour on your phone.

Visit order

  1. 106
    Stanislas de Guaita's first apartment (shared with Péladan)24, rue Jean-Baptiste-Pigalle (alors rue Pigalle), 75009 Paris · Metro Saint-Georges (12) / Pigalle (2, 12)Private, seen from the streetResidencec. 1885-1886

    After the Latin Quarter, the young Stanislas de Guaita moved to rue Pigalle and invited his new friend Joséphin Péladan to share the apartment. The arrangement did not last, as the two personalities clashed. This was still the address Guaita gave Oswald Wirth when they first met.

    The story →

  2. 107
    Le Chat Noir cabaret12, rue Victor-Massé (alors rue de Laval), 75009 Paris · Metro Pigalle (2, 12)Private, seen from the streetScene1885-1897

    Founded in 1881 on boulevard de Rochechouart by Rodolphe Salis, the Chat Noir moved here in 1885. At the end of 1887, Erik Satie introduced himself there as a “gymnopédiste” and was taken on as a pianist. With its shadow theater and its magazine, the cabaret often crossed paths with the world of Symbolists and occultists.

    The story →

  3. 108
    Erik Satie's lodgings, rue Condorcet50, rue Condorcet, 75009 Paris · Metro Anvers (2) / Poissonnière (7)Private, seen from the streetResidence1888

    Churton presents this building as Erik Satie's first proper home in Paris, occupied around 1888, at the time of the Gymnopédies and the Sarabandes, until the money ran out. The composer was then frequenting the Chat Noir and Bailly's bookshop, where he met Debussy.

    The story →

  4. 109
    Collège Rollin (lycée Jacques-Decour)12, avenue Trudaine, 75009 Paris · Metro Anvers (2)In operationScene1870s-1880s

    Gérard Encausse, the future Papus, studied at this school, which moved to avenue Trudaine in 1876. Several of his classmates, including Lucien Mauchel (Chamuel), later formed a small Sunday literary circle around him, the core of his future publishing and initiatic ventures.

    The story →

  5. 110
    Stanislas de Guaita's apartment20, avenue Trudaine, 75009 Paris · Metro Anvers (2) / Pigalle (2, 12)Private, seen from the streetResidence1887-1897

    In January 1887 Guaita moved into the ground floor of this building and assembled a large occult library there. On Thursday evenings he received Papus, Péladan, Abbé Roca, Lady Caithness, Michelet, Barrès and Saint-Yves d'Alveydre around the tea table. Legend had it that the apartment was haunted.

    The story →

  6. 111
    Auberge du Clou30, avenue Trudaine, 75009 Paris · Metro Anvers (2) / Pigalle (2, 12)In operationScene1891-1893

    A cabaret-restaurant with a shadow theater run by Miguel Utrillo, the Auberge du Clou brought together Catalan painters and friends of Satie. Here the composer worked on Uspud, a “Christian ballet” written with Contamine de Latour, and through this circle he met Suzanne Valadon. Debussy also frequented the place.

    The story →

  7. 112
    Erik Satie's room, rue Cortot6, rue Cortot, 75018 Paris · Metro Lamarck – Caulaincourt (12) / Abbesses (12)Private, seen from the streetResidence1890-1898

    Satie lived in a small room at the top of the Butte from 1890 to 1898, “above his creditors” as he put it. There he composed the Gnossiennes, lived out his 1893 affair with Suzanne Valadon, and that same year founded his Metropolitan Church of Art of Jesus the Conductor, of which he was the only member.

    The story →